2018 Aprilia RS4 50 Euro 4 Upgrade Project

[Berkeley]

Oh... so I wish... Tried it today and still the same. Tried with an 8 spark as well. A bit ill at the moment will try bumping it tomorrow to compare how it ran before.
Thanks for all your input!!!

[kaldis12]

Oh... so I wish... Tried it today and still the same. Tried with an 8 spark as well. A bit ill at the moment will try bumping it tomorrow to compare how it ran before.
Thanks for all your input!!!

Re the sensor...

The dealer said 'this is a valve for gasoline vapors you can disconnect it'

A sensor that is for gasoline vapors? Wtf? That dealer is nuts maan. Tonight I will search for the electronics map for your euro4. I Will write if I find anything.

[toratora]

K—What the circuit does is take fuel fumes, and bring them into the engine to burn. Cars have had these sorts of gadgets for years. Euro4 has added them to bikes.

B—The bike now probably has more compression, plus a ring that was very tight. It is probably a little more difficult at the moment for the starter to over come. Push starting is probably the way to get it going while you break it in. I don't remember my MetraKit installs having an appreciably stiff ring, which is why I was surprised by your post.

Make sure you have spark, and fuel. Compression is likely to be there based on the other things you mentioned. Those are the basic elements. If the plug looks fouled that could be an indicator. But likely the issue is just that the battery doesn't have enough power to turn it over fast enough.

[Berkeley]

Cheers,

I'll take some photos of the sensor. It appears a line comes off then loops around itself. I'll ask him for the wiring diagram.

Bike is on charge so will try again and then bump at lunch tomorrow.

Yeah the rings were difficult. Normally tight and needing some pinching force, but not to the point of how the f is this going to get in. I did turn the head upside down then insert the piston which is normally the easier method. But saying this it seems to be turning over the same as before. Not noticeably different.

Btw the dealers message was Google translated from French to English.. so sometimes it does come out not quite right

This is the carb when i changed the jets, The black plastic shroud was removed.
.

BTW I'm still awaiting for the KOSO sensor and adapter to arrive so have no water in her. Hence when starting it will stop after 30 seconds so as not to get hot. Is there a bolt/cap that I can fit in the mean time and what would be the size. I took the old sensor and tried to match it to a bolt which was a 12mm that nearly fitted but the thread were different. I think this one must be courser.

[Berkeley]

Attempted to electric start and no good,so bumped it again. Seemed a bit better than before with changing of the jets, this time managed to stop it from stalling when i pulled the clutch in. Tried electric start afterwards and no luck.
Now changed the air fuel mix to 1.5 turns out , before 2 turns out. Also put another turn in on the idle to see if it keeps the revs up. waiting for it to cool down and will try again.

Bumped it again and much much better. still no start before or after with the electric. just need the water circuit to be closed then can give it a proper run in.

[Berkeley]

LED Neon Accent Lighting Kit

So as Christmas is around the corner Amaya wanted some lights for her bike (because they look cool apparently!!). As most of the fairing is off I decided to fit them.

I got them from ebay again for 52.67 euros.

The kit was actually good, the app and remote works well, enough connectors and lights in the pack. The fuse and switch also included.

Note the electric starting problems occurred before I fitted them.
.

[toratora]

First you should run the old H2O sensor until you can install the Koso. Do not run the engine without water in it. There's too much risk. Use some teflon plumbers thread sealer tape on it.

You also need to perform some heat cycles before running the bike. I don't have a tutorial put together on how to break in a two stroke engine, but basically it's a process of heating up the engine, letting it cool down, heating it up and bring up the revs a little bit more with each heat cycle.

Duncan Racing has a paper on their procedure.

Motorsport.com has an article on the process which they sum up with this quote, which is basically the process I follow, but I'm not that aggressive on the first couple of runs. I also don't ride the bike for the first two or three warm ups. Cool downs happen a lot faster at night when it is colder. The engine should be cold to the touch between cycles.

Let the bike warm up normally, then ride the bike for around 10-15 minutes at a decent pace but without over-revving the engine. Then let the bike cool down for around 20-30 minutes. Then repeat this 3 or 4 times. On the 3rd and 4th time I usually ride a bit longer, 15-20 minutes.

Because the ring was so tight it isn't going to bedded in enough for the electric starter right away. It's going to take some riding on the bike before you can expect the electric starter to have a chance.

[Berkeley]

Thanks Tora..
Yes very wary of overheating the bike. Just did it enough so could get it started. First time was about 60 Deg C second 85 Deg. I knew this as cooked the head at 50 Deg C in the oven for the paint so had a good idea.
Let it cool to 0 before the second attempt

There seems like quite a size difference between the old temp sensor and the new head fitting . Will try to get a bolt to fit tomorrow .failing that will try your method. Failing that I'll just wait for the part to arrive.
Will have a read cheers

[jkv357]

Speaking of break-in, here's an article I recently ran across on the subject -

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/g00/ ... i10c.dv=14

Now, they are not running a 2-stroke, but the article may still have some merit.

The only thing that I would be concerned about is the extended idling. Rings need combustion pressure to seat, and typically (on a 4-stroke) that means you want to ride it while "loading", but not over-revving, the engine with strong "pulls". The load provides the pressures needed to seat the rings.

I asked my race engine builder friend about break-in once, and he said they took newly rebuilt Pro Stock engines up to the line before firing them and shooting them down the track - no break-in time at all. That's for performance, and not longevity, but still something to consider.

[toratora]

Yeah I don't let it idle. I do quick throttle revs so that the piston doesn't stay at the same RPM. I really need to write up a proper tutorial for break-ins.