![Image](https://i.imgur.com/5gkXmmP.jpg)
For the procedure steps to this part check out the water pump revision post.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/Ts2PeVy.jpg)
Remove the five philips screws. They can take a bit of a quick turn to break them free. I usually employ an impact driver to free them up.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/yBfYKb6.jpg)
At this point I could have just swapped out the springs, however since they had been slipping for a bit I wanted to inspect the discs, and to do that you have to remove the cover/pressure plate.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/OgC2pVT.jpg)
The material discs were in decent shape as can be seen here in that the wear indicator is still in good shape (the A like thing).
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/hsxspmM.jpg)
The metal discs however did show some heat scoring.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/Sejj4mF.jpg)
The Calimari performance spring vs the stock spring. It is not only longer it is also stiffer–a lot more so.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/XlmoSSu.jpg)
Filling up the clutch basket. It's important to put things back in the same order as mating surfaces develop a bedding for each other. I didn't notice any coating on the metal discs so I took a bit of emery cloth to them to remove some of the heat build up.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/2QMosYI.jpg)
The next point of interest is this mark on the basket.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/oV8frG4.jpg)
When you place the face plate on the basket line up the Derbi logo with the mark on the basket.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/ihzFNmi.jpg)
One thing different about the newer engines is that there are fewer alan bolts and more traditional hex bolts. This case is fastened by 8mm head hex bolts.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/DDjMlqY.jpg)