Turning a new page for the Nude GPR

[Karim]

My bike decided to lock up the rear brakes as I was going into a sharp speed bump and I didnt handle it very well. Fairings are done. Handlebar is bent. And its stuck on full throttle. And I have no trust in the brakes anymore.
So now I've decided that I might as well turn it into a project bike.
So my plan is to redo (upgrade?) the brakes.
Upgrade the exhaust.
Rebuild the carb and properly jet it.
Remove all fairings and put frame sliders.
Bend back or replace handlebars.
Replace clutch.
Rebuild the starter.
Replace all levers.
Upgrade alternator if possible.
If upgrading the alternator is possible then I will also upgrade the lights and redo the awful wiring.

I would like everyone's thoughts, opinions and recommendations on this project.

[toratora]

That's awful. I hope you are okay.

The first thing I would do is inspect the rear brake system to find out why it failed. I've not had any issues with one, but they could fail if dirt got in the caliper and it corroded something causing a piston to stick. Anyway, inspect it, and if you can take a bunch of photos of it. Post them up, and maybe we can figure out what caused it.

I've not found a reason to upgrade the rear brake, but I've done quite a bit with upgrading the front brake. The DRP thread that I've been updating will soon have lots of juicy information about it. Just takes time for me to rebuild these threads. For the rear brake it's probably best to see what it looks like after inspection. There are revision kits that include new seals and pistons. That's probably going to be the route to take.

The Nude has pretty standard bars. You might be able to easily find a replacement. They can be bent back, but You'll have to check them to see if they've retained their integrity.

These bikes don't have alternators. They, like most bikes, have a stator which is more like a generator, and produces DC rather than AC current. It's similar, and integrated into the ignition. Most ignition options produce less power for the accessories, rather than more.

Pretty much every option I know of is going to delete the electric starter. If you are okay with that the PowerDynamo can produce 100watts of accessory power. That's a decent increase from the stock unit. Now they don't make one for your bike, but they do make one for the Puchs, and since they have the same taper you should be able to get it to work. The HPI ignitions that I run on my GPRs are Puch versions. Treats can get these for you, just make sure you get the one that rotates the same direction as the GPR—which I believe is counter clockwise, but it's easy enough to check when you are at the bike.

The stock clutch is pretty decent, although stiffer springs are necessary if you upgrade the engine to produce more power. There's a tutorial on this procedure. It's the same for changing out the plates too, although if you use new plates make sure to soak them in transmission oil—over night if you can. Treats has the springs in stock, and they can probably get you discs too.

Start up a project thread for you bike in the Projects section. That way you'll have an easy way to track the process of your bike, and find information for it. Actually, I should probably just move this thread for you since it's really already a good start.

[Karim]

I came out unscathed thankfully. Jeans just have a minor tear.
Now that I think about it more it was probably the chain not the brakes since I was able to limp it home fairly painlessly (until the throttle stuck putting into the garage)
For the clutch I'm just going to replace it as it feels worn.
Probably just going to leave the stator as is if that is the case.
What upgrades have you done to the front brake?
I'm going to make a seperate project thread once I actually begin work.

[toratora]

Glad to hear you are okay!

Yeah you want to go through the bike and find out what locked up the rear wheel. That's probably the first thing that I would do. My friends once though they seized the engine locking up the rear, but it turned out to be that they broke the flywheel! That was a much less expensive fix than replacing the top end.

I've done a lot on the brakes for these bikes. I just have to get the thread updated that far. I'll let you know when I do. I did a lot of messing around with front masters. But I've also replaced the disc, and caliper. Many photos of each will be posted.

I've moved this thread to the Project section for you. If you'd like me to change the name of it, I can do that for you too.

[Karim]

As soon as I figure out a way to stay warm I am going to start stripping away at the bike. Right now I am trying to find a suitable replacement for the handlebars. I recently gained access to a CNC mill so I might be manufacturing my own levers.

[toratora]

Post up some photos.

When you say clutch, do you mean the clutch lever? I've been talking about the actual clutch inside the engine.

[Karim]

I am talking about the clutch pack, but at $800 already that might be something I dont do. And I might end up just replacing the brake pads with sintered ones.

[Karim]

Started work on the bike. I began by removing all the damaged fairings and beginning disassembly of the handlebars.
I made the mistake of opening the airbox and i'm not quite sure how it goes back together.
I also need to figure out how to get the grips and throttle off, as well as the fuel tap.

[toratora]

Grips are pretty easy to get off if you know some tricks. First reconnect the bars to the bike so that you'll have better leverage. If you have an air compressor you can use that and the grips come right off like magic. If you don't carefully slip a screw driver into the grip at the opening, then spray some Windex in there. Twist the grip a bit, and then pull and twist. It should come right off. You only need to remove the left side this way. The right side will stay on the throttle tube, unless it was messed up in the crash. Then you can just cut it off.

The controls have two Philips screws in the back. That will allow the cover to come off. Once that's off there's another screw, and a clamp on the inside. With those removed they'll come right off. I have photos of this in the Red Power thread, but I don't think they are up there yet. But you'll see it right away once you are in there.

The top of the air box just snaps on. The snaps are very good though. The later bikes used screws to hold the top on. I upgrade my bike with the air box from the 125 because it came with the larger intake adaptor, and a larger boot to connect to a larger carb.

The non-painted plastics for these bikes are really affordable. Easy Parts should have them. The painted parts aren't that many on it so you probably could replace them. There are a number of places that have them—all in Europe. I've been slowly buying parts for mine since I was crashed. But you should be able to make the bike look nice again.

Was it snowing or something like that when you crashed? That rear tire looks really huge, and if it picked up a rock, or enough snow, or mud or something it could easily lock up the rear on you.

What clutch pack did you see for $800? I don't even think the Bidalot is that expensive. But really for these bikes it's not necessary. If you put one of the very powerful kits on it then upgrading the clutch basket to the most recent one with the roller bearings is worth while. Other than that stiffer springs is usually all that's needed to accommodate most BBKs.

I've had great luck with the Ferodo pads for these bikes.

[toratora]

Hey K,

The reason I suggest getting the Voca Undertail is because it's one of the best values out there. It will match up very nicely to the Malossi kit that you have, the Voca looks quite good, is very light, sounds good without being loud,


The Gianelli is a mid power pipe. You wont probably find any real performance upgrade with it. It will be lighter than the stock pipe, but wont really make the bike perform much better. The Malossi pipe is a nice pipe if you can still find one, but it doesn't look to be made as nicely as the Voca, and from what I've seen the Voca has more performance.