Turning a new page for the Nude GPR

[toratora]

Without seeing photos of the actual pipe it's hard to figure out where the connectors attach. But if it's like the stock pipe, or the Voca then you can look through my thread on how they go together. It's a little bit different than other bikes. There will be two bolts at the cylinder. The will either mount a manifold to the cylinder, or the pipe will have a bracket built into it with a beveled end that connects to the cylinder. When you remove the stock pipe you'll see how it connect. Still two bolts.

There should be another bolt under the engine cradle where the pipe mounts to the frame. There is usually a silent block (a tubular piece of rubber with bolts coming out of each end). Connect one side to the frame, and the other to the mount on the pipe (usually on the expansion chamber).

You parts look like they just gave you a bolt that goes through the rubber tube. This will work, but it's not as nice as a silent block. You can order one from treats later if you like.


The third connector will be to support the silencer. The silencer will also have a long stinger attached to it that goes down the center of the of the subframe connecting to the loop that goes through the swing arm. You'll need to remove the pillion seat to get to the silencer support mount. there is probably a hoop that goes around the silencer. That will connect to the bolt with the tab welded onto it. The hole in the tab will sit between, or on the side of the hoop mounts depending on its sizing, and the bolt will go up into the mount on the subframe.

This pipe doesn't employ a gasket. It has a bevel that fits up against the reverse bevel on the cylinder. It's good to employ some copper gasket sealer on the two of them because they can leak. Loosely fit the two bolts on the cylinder until you get the other two mounts loosely in place. Then tighten up the two bolts at the cylinder, and then the engine cradle, and then the silencer. This sequence will ensure proper adjustments where needed. Also use some copper gasket sealer at the joint where the stinger attached to the loop.

If you check out my DRP thread you'll find photos of how all of this goes together.

With regards to the restrictor in the pipe. If you have a rotary tool just use it to grind the weld down to the point that you can remove the restrictor. Then use the rotary tool, or a round/half round file to clean up the pipe.

[toratora]

The rubber bit fit perfectly to mate the expansion chamber and the pipe. It was tighter on one end than the other. Are you sure it's not for that?


Also revert that thread for now. There's stuff I want to put before that.

Hard to be sure about anything with limited information.

Go ahead and continue on with your thread. Projects have a propensity to change over time gaining new vectors. That's normal—especially as your skill level develops. The great thing about a project thread is that it documents the process which can be very useful when you want to remember what you did way back when.

It also keeps all your info in one easy to find place rather than spread around in a bunch of difficult to trace threads.

In the previous photo the the rubber unit didn't look like a gasket. Many pipes do employ gaskets like that so that's probably the correct use of it. The larger metal spacer may mount up at either the cradle, or at the hanger for the silencer. Most of these pipes have a slight offset at the rear rather than being totally centered as one might expect.