Lots of effort went into this bike to get it converted back to street for GPR Camp. Both Jimmy and Ed helped a lot, and with their awesome help I was able to get the bike ready to ride. There were a lot of trials and tribulations solving all sorts of problems with the conversion. I had to borrow, and scrounge parts from many of my other bikes to pull it off, and come up with some creative solutions. Most of which I'm not even going to bother to document because they were just too crazy. It was worth it though because I'm really happy with how the bike looks and how it's running.
The custom shock res mount, and exhaust hanger needed to be modified for the tail section to fit. The shock res mount is a temporary mod because I didn't have time to do it properly. There was just to much to accomplish in too little of time.
Another big thing to get done was the ignition. First I had to take off the HPI, and because I had to move the bike stuff I couldn't find the puller. I was under extreme time pressure so I had to resort the Pickup Truck mechanic's method--which worked great. Then I had to come up with a mounting system for the Top. I used part of the HPI coil mount to mount the Top coil, and zip ties to mount the CDI.
The wiring was pretty straight forward. Just like the stock CDI really. The White/Black cable connects to the Green/Black cable to kill the engine. The top end on the bike is the Project Poor Man's ProRace (the modified Airsal I did some years ago), with a MetraKit ProRace pipe, and a 24mm MetraKit PWK carb.
The Mychron 3 ended up being great, and unfortunately I don't have photos of all the work that went into putting it on the bike. The one photo I took is the speed sensor which required a magnet. I ended up using one pulled from the fridge! lolz Ed fashioned up a bracket for the sensor, and then I wired it up. The Mychron 3 has two temp sensors, a speed sensor, and a tach sensor. It can also sense a beacon on the track, but I'm not employing that for it. It records the data which can then be fed into a computer and analyzed. That's something I might play around with later. It also features warnings for low temp, and high temp for each sensor, tach limit, and I think it can even figure out what gear the bike is in based on speed and RPM once setup. I've a bit of learning to do with it yet. lolz You can also seen the new rotor I found that would fit the bike.
Lots of work went into the livery, but I only have finished photos. These mostly came from at GPR Camp.
I got some nice bits from EasyParts including new mirrors, and clear blinkers which also give the bike a nice look. And it got a new set of MC18s--If you have one of these bikes and you don't have these tires yet I don't know what you are waiting for--these really make a huge difference on these bikes!
The chain is worn out, but I didn't have time to replace it. Will have to do that soon. I also need to get some Derbi stickers for the faux tank.
The bike runs really strong. It's got decent mid-range power, and when it gets on the pipe it pulls. The funny thing is how late it gets on the pipe—somewhere around 9500 RPM! It does seem to struggle from 8500 or so though. That 1,000 RPM is really tough to ride around, and I'm going to have to see if I can tune things a little bit better.
Ed's RS50 has the aluminum Top Performance kit that Matt set up. This bike can out pull Matt's kit by quite a bit. Which was a bit surprising—pleasantly so. If you can keep the bike on the pipe it's an absolute joy to ride. We had some spirited riding on Panoramic, Bo-Fax, and 21 corners and it was just so much fun. It was lots of work bringing this bike back to the street, and oh so worth it—now I'm going to have to give the bike a different name.
Translation
But for now you can see the boxes. The one I used has a mod to allow it to take power from the bike rather than wasting batteries. I've read that these should last months on a set of batteries, but this one wont even last a day on a new set. It also kills the bike's battery—even when turned off. For now I'm just unplugging it after riding it. I need to set the power to go through the key switch. 